Tyler Andrews Defends Everest FKT Bid After Using Oxygen and a Camp 2 Helicopter Airlift
Updated
Updated · ExplorersWeb · May 26
Tyler Andrews Defends Everest FKT Bid After Using Oxygen and a Camp 2 Helicopter Airlift
2 articles · Updated · ExplorersWeb · May 26
Andrews said he switched to supplemental oxygen after Camp 2 on his May 22-23 Everest speed attempt, then turned back near the Balcony when his safety support and spare O2 did not follow.
An almost 1-hour stop at Camp 4 cut into his margin on the 10h56 oxygen-assisted record, and he said summiting as his gas ran out in high winds would have left him exposed and alone.
He also confirmed taking a helicopter from Camp 2 after vision problems on the descent; a team doctor advised the airlift over crossing the Khumbu Icefall with possible snowblindness or corneal abrasion.
The disclosures have sharpened debate over Everest record rules, with Kilian Jornet arguing that having oxygen available disqualifies a climb as truly no-O2 and the Himalayan Database saying new categories may be needed.
Andrews said he plans another attempt starting tomorrow, still aiming for the fastest ascent-and-return on Everest, with gas or no-gas style not yet decided.
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